All For A Few Perfect Waves

Autore: David Rensin
Editore: Random House
ISBN: 140907983X
Grandezza: 46,22 MB
Formato: PDF
Vista: 3455

There will never be another surfer like Miki 'Da Cat' Dora. For twenty years the dashing and enigmatic dark prince of California surfing dominated the Malibu waves and his peers' imaginations, blazing a trail that would inspire generations to come. But when the sport exploded into the mainstream and surfing changed for ever, Dora's paradise was lost. Outraged at gridlocked swells and a scene that had grown ever more commodified, Dora eventually fled Malibu, seeking empty waves - and anonymity - beyond America. He'd also run afoul of the law, and he led the authorities on a seven-year chase around the globe. Yet, Dora would never give up searching for the spirit of the Malibu he'd lost. Wherever he made his home - New Zealand, South Africa, France - he personified the rebel heart of surfing and became a legend in his own time. This brilliant biography, based on interviews with more than three hundred people who knew Dora, finally uncovers the truth about surfing's most seductive and complicated icon.

Surfing In The Movies

Autore: John Engle
Editore: McFarland
ISBN: 0786495219
Grandezza: 10,47 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 4544

Surfing has fascinated filmmakers since Thomas Edison shot footage of Waikiki beachboys in 1906. Before the 1950s surf craze, surfing showed up in travelogues or as exotic background for studio features. The arrival of Gidget (1959) on the big screen swept the sport into popular culture, but surfer-filmmakers were already featuring the day's best surfers in self-narrated two-reelers. Hollywood and independent filmmakers have produced about three dozen surf films in the last half-century, including the frothy Beach Party movies, Point Break (1991) and Chasing Mavericks (2012). From Bud Browne's earliest efforts to The Endless Summer (1966), Riding Giants (2004) and today's brilliant videos, over 1,000 surfing movies have celebrated the stoke. This first full-length study of surf movies gives critical attention to hundreds of the most important films.


Autore: David Davis
Editore: U of Nebraska Press
ISBN: 0803285140
Grandezza: 37,29 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 5670

Waterman is the first comprehensive biography of Duke Kahanamoku (1890–1968): swimmer, surfer, Olympic gold medalist, Hawaiian icon, waterman. Long before Michael Phelps and Mark Spitz made their splashes in the pool, Kahanamoku emerged from the backwaters of Waikiki to become America’s first superstar Olympic swimmer. The original “human fish” set dozens of world records and topped the world rankings for more than a decade; his rivalry with Johnny Weissmuller transformed competitive swimming from an insignificant sideshow into a headliner event. Kahanamoku used his Olympic renown to introduce the sport of “surf-riding,” an activity unknown beyond the Hawaiian Islands, to the world. Standing proudly on his traditional wooden longboard, he spread surfing from Australia to the Hollywood crowd in California to New Jersey. No American athlete has influenced two sports as profoundly as Kahanamoku did, and yet he remains an enigmatic and underappreciated figure: a dark-skinned Pacific Islander who encountered and overcame racism and ignorance long before the likes of Joe Louis, Jesse Owens, and Jackie Robinson. Kahanamoku’s connection to his homeland was equally important. He was born when Hawaii was an independent kingdom; he served as the sheriff of Honolulu during Pearl Harbor and World War II and as a globetrotting “Ambassador of Aloha” afterward; he died not long after Hawaii attained statehood. As one sportswriter put it, Duke was “Babe Ruth and Jack Dempsey combined down here.” In Waterman, award-winning journalist David Davis examines the remarkable life of Duke Kahanamoku, in and out of the water.

Surfing And The Meaning Of Life

Autore: Ben Marcus
ISBN: 9781610606851
Grandezza: 11,75 MB
Formato: PDF, Mobi
Vista: 492

Ninety full-color and black-and-white photographs, along with reflections, observations, wit, and wisdom by some of the sport's leading practitioners, including Miki Dora, Greg Noll, Kelly Slater, and Laird Hamilton, capture the culture of surfing.


Autore: Don Nardo
Editore: Greenhaven Publishing LLC
ISBN: 1420512641
Grandezza: 71,73 MB
Formato: PDF, Kindle
Vista: 3147

Author Don Nardo examines the many aspects of science underlying the popular sport of surfing. This book discusses the physics of waves, the science behind board shape and how riders stay on the board, covering the principles of gravity, buoyancy, and water surface tension. It also covers the scientific principles behind movements such as popping-up on the board; catching a wave; riding a wave; turning; the "hang-ten"; the "duck dive"; the "turtle roll"; and others. Other connections to science are made through discussion of wiping out, rip currents, collisions and typical injuries, hypothermia, and shark attacks. This volume discusses psychological aspects, especially anxiety.

Finding The Perfect Wave

Autore: Cheri H. Miklich
Editore: Tate Publishing
ISBN: 1616638737
Grandezza: 59,54 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 9451

'Alli...there's been an accident.' Her voice grew silent. 'What?' I began to hear sobbing coming from the other end of the line. A sick feeling overtook my whole body. The fear of what I was about to hear became a stronger reality with each of Sara's sobs. 'There was a really bad car accident, and Alli...' She paused and began to cry louder. 'H-He's...gone. He's dead.'Seventeen-year-old Alli Whitton's life just can't get any better. She's one of the best surfers in Huntington Beach, spending every day side by side with her boyfriend, Todd, and just days away from entering the halls of her senior year in high school. Then her dad is transferred miles away from her beloved ocean to the middle of the sweltering Arizona desert, and Alli's perfect life is threatened. It takes an uphill turn, however, when she meets Jake, the school's handsome soccer star, whose sandy blond hair and sharp green eyes remind her how to smile once again. All she needs to do is make it ten long months; then she's free to return to California. But when an unthinkable tragedy occurs, Alli is forced into mourning the loss of a dear loved one, leaving her suffering through the grieving process in a new school with none of her best friends to comfort her. Cheri Miklich'sFinding the Perfect Waveis a romantic coming-of-age drama where readers will learn, along with Alli, to smile and laugh even amidst life's darkest hours. A new romance blooms, hope and faith fight to prevail, and a strong realization of passion for her dreams surfaces as she discovers who she is meant to be. Join Alli as she enters the waters of life and seeks to find the perfect wave!

What Is The Meaning Of Life

Autore: Dream Catcher Paul Fisette
ISBN: 0557029228
Grandezza: 50,98 MB
Formato: PDF
Vista: 8291

Synchronicity! "You leave on a Journey to write a book and you end up living the answer to the question you thought you were asking."How do you go about documenting YOUR "Journey of Discovery"? Paul Fisette left on an eight month tour around Canada and the United States living in his RV and came home with the answer to that age-old question, "What is the meaning of life?"But he didn't "just" find an answer; he actually "lived" the answer!His story, documented here, is three parts travelogue, two parts autobiography, one part storytelling, and one part theorizing. This recipe for arriving at an answer that has baffled the minds of many great thinkers from Plato to Einstein leaves us with a question that we must all be wondering.Can it be true?The only way to decide is to read this informative, witty, inquiring, emotionally charged, and inspirational story!

Don T Give Up Don T Give In

Autore: Louis Zamperini
Editore: Hachette UK
ISBN: 0349406464
Grandezza: 80,81 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 7808

'IF YOU CAN TAKE IT, YOU CAN MAKE IT' Louis Zamperini lived one of the most amazing lives imaginable. As a young boy he was a troublemaker but his will to succeed drove him on to become an Olympian at the 1936 Games. With the outbreak of war, Louis volunteered for the army and was thrust into the violent combat of the Second World War as a B-24 bombardier. While on a rescue mission Louis's plane crashed in the Pacific Ocean, leaving him stranded and drifting 2000 miles in a small raft for 47 days. Against all the odds he survived. His struggle was just beginning: captured by the Japanese, Louis courageously endured torture in a series of prisoner-of-war camps for over two years. Not only did he survive this ordeal but he went on to spend the rest of his life helping others. Completed just days before Louis's death at age 97, Don't Give Up, Don't Give In contains a lifetime of wisdom and humour. Louis shares the wonderful lessons he has learned during his life, previously untold stories, and inspirational insights on how he overcame adversity and found the courage to never give up and never give in. Louis's story has touched millions and will forever be one of the most inspiring examples of the great resilience of the human spirit.

Why Now Is The Perfect Time To Wave A Friendly Goodbye To Quebec

Autore: Lowell Green
ISBN: 1456620673
Grandezza: 70,58 MB
Formato: PDF, Mobi
Vista: 5898

Few Canadians have fought harder or longer for national unity and bilingualism than Lowell Green. "That was then," says Green. "I have come full circle and am now convinced that it would be best for all concerned if Quebecers were to buck up their courage, cut the cord and, just as many other countries have done, become master in their own house." As is his style, Green, with humour, insight and well-researched facts, pulls no punches in making very powerful and persuasive arguments for what he calls a "velvet divorce" from Quebec. Includes the opinions of 90 different Canadians!

Mop Rides The Waves Of Life

Autore: Jaimal Yogis
Editore: Parallax Press
ISBN: 1946764612
Grandezza: 21,22 MB
Formato: PDF, Kindle
Vista: 4663

If only life could be like surfing! Having "funny" hair and being embarrassed in school is hard, but when little surfer Mop studies the lessons of the waves—breathing, letting the bad waves go by, and riding the good ones—he learns how to bring the mindfulness and joy of surfing into his whole life. Celebrated San Francisco surfer-journalist-dad Jaimal Yogis teaches 4-8 year olds timeless beach wisdom with the story of Mop, a sensitive and fun-loving kid who just wants to be in the ocean. Going to school and navigating classmates can be hard—but all that goes away when little surfer Mop paddles out in the waves. With a few tips from his clever mom, Mop studies the wisdom of the water and learns to bring it into his life on land: taking deep breaths, letting the tough waves pass, and riding the good ones all the way. With newfound awareness and courage, Mop heads back to land—and school—to surf the waves of life. With stylish full-color beachy illustrations from cover to cover.

Love And The Perfect Wave

Autore: Pearl Howie
ISBN: 1847997929
Grandezza: 51,85 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 2728

"Love and The Perfect Wave" is Rachel's story. Rachel doesn't really care about perfect waves, she cares about the perfect man. Her only reason for learning to surf is to impress Steve, the guy she has had a crush on for years and has finally managed to get into bed.Now she's trying to cover up the fact that she's been a desperate workaholic for the last ten years, before he notices.Gym work outs, lingerie shopping trips and a serious spring clean are on the cards, but will it all be enough to keep him interested?

Time Out Los Angeles

Autore: Editors of Time Out
Editore: Time Out Guides
ISBN: 1846703018
Grandezza: 48,72 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 3934

Time Out Los Angeles is a VIP pass beyond the velvet rope and into the heart of one of the most fascinating cities in the United States. The capital of the West Coast, a sprawling megalopolis that is home to more stars than the night sky, Los Angeles continues to enthrall all those who visit it. Whether visitors are looking for tips on the hottest bets or hot springs, this is the must-have travel guide — it covers the newest clubs, restaurants, and shopping, as well as day-trip suggestions in every direction.

The Year S Best Science Fiction Eighteenth Annual Collection

Autore: Gardner Dozois
Editore: St. Martin's Griffin
ISBN: 0312703724
Grandezza: 35,19 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub
Vista: 1815

The twenty-three stories in this collection imaginatively take us far across the universe, into the very core of our being, to the realm of the gods, and the moment just after now. Included here are the works of masters of the form and of bright new talents, including: Stephen Baxter, M.Shayne Bell, Rick Cook, Albert E. Cowdrey, Tananarive Due, Greg Egan, Eliot Fintushel, Peter F. Hamilton, Earnest Hogan, John Kessel, Nancy Kress, Ursula K. Le Guin, Paul J. McAuley, Ian McDonald, Susan Palwick, Severna Park, Alastair Reynolds, Lucius Shepard, Brian Stableford, Charles Stross, Michael Swanwick, Steven Utley, Robert Charles Wilson Supplementing the stories is the editor's insightful summation of the year's events and lengthy list of honorable mentions, making this book a valuable resource in addition to serving as the single best place in the universe to find stories that stir the imagination and the heart.

Promises I Made My Mother

Autore: Sam Haskell
Editore: Ballantine Books
ISBN: 0345516575
Grandezza: 27,63 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 4246

What would my mother say? How would she want me to handle this situation? How can I make this tough decision and stay true to myself? What would my mother say? Sam Haskell still asks himself these questions every day. When Haskell was young, his devoted mother, Mary, instilled in her son the values of character, faith, and honor by setting an example and asking him to promise to live his life according to her lessons. He did, and those promises have served Haskell consistently from his Mississippi boyhood to his long career at the venerable William Morris Agency in Beverly Hills. In this inspiring memoir full of touching stories and amusing anecdotes, Haskell reveals how he kept his pledge to his mother to live a decent life–even in the shark-infested waters of Hollywood, where he handled the hottest stars and packaged the highest-rated shows–by refusing to become the cliché of an amoral agent. Here is Haskell as a child in Amory, Mississippi (pop. 7,000), discovering the power of hope as he waits for an unlikely visit from the “Cheer Man” (a representative of the detergent company who gave ten dollars to anyone using the brand), learning humility after pursuing an eighth-grade “Good Citizenship” award he cockily assumed he’d win, confronting the complications of human character when a near-fatal car crash exposed his judgmental father’s true nature. Years later, in Hollywood, Haskell would rely on his mother’s teachings–honesty, self-reliance, and belief in God–as he swiftly rose from the William Morris mailroom to eventually become the company’s Worldwide Head of Television. His capacity for friendship and his insistence on living his version of the Golden Rule (being “thoughtfully political”) allowed him to handle various client crises and the tense negotiations that nearly scuttled the last years of Everybody Loves Raymond and the entire existence of The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air. Haskell has achieved success through self-respect, and from his story we learn how we, too, can maintain our dignity when faced with life’s challenges. This stirring memoir is a testament to mothers everywhere who instill in their sons the lasting values they need to become good men and devoted fathers. From the Hardcover edition.

Hometown Santa Monica

Autore: Jenn Garbee
Editore: Prospect Park Publishing
ISBN: 0975393928
Grandezza: 39,97 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 7809

Hometown Santa Monica continues in the same popular style as its Pasadena counterpart, a new breed of guidebook adding wit, personalities and color to reliable insider's advice on what to do, see, eat, drink, and experience in the cities fronting Santa Monica Bay. In words and full-color images, this sophisticated guide showcases the people and institutions, the history and stories, the art and architecture,and the quirks and charms of these vibrant communities.


Autore: Gregory Maube
Editore: Silverback Books
ISBN: 9782752800169
Grandezza: 58,71 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 762

A book in the 'Extreme Sport' collection that treats surfing like a way of life, a way of being in the world.

Harold S World

Autore: Max Salt
Editore: Zelkova Press
ISBN: 0578048051
Grandezza: 63,77 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 1495

As a survivor of unspeakable brutality, the last thing Shailene Campbell wants is more violence, but being uniquely qualified to protect others from the horror she endured makes the choice unavoidable. But if she has to hunt down predatory psychopaths, then she's also going after the God who created the bloody world she inhabits. Silas "Mac" MacIlwane was a manager, teacher, and perpetrator of violence until his wife and son were viciously killed in a home invasion. Now he helps catch bad guys by profiling them for the FBI. When he picks up a trail of corpses left by a vigilante, however, he realizes he'd rather be sending murderers to hell than to court. When Campbell's and MacIlwane's paths cross, no one walks away unscathed.

Afghanistan The Perfect Failure

Autore: John L. Cook
Editore: Xlibris Corporation
ISBN: 1479720712
Grandezza: 26,57 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Docs
Vista: 7529

LONG BOOK DESCRIPTION: Unparalleled access to all levels of the Afghan government and coalition forces is the result of John Cooks tenure in Afghanistan. Over the past four and a half years, he has developed an intimate and alarming insight into what has become a hand-wringing quagmire of politically correct, socially and culturally sensitive policies and programs that continue to be implemented, and that can only result in catastrophic failure for the United States, the coalition and the average Afghan. Mr. Cook offers unprecedented insight as he digs deep to rip away at the misguided and destructive policies, including the infamous Rules of Engagement that doom our soldiers for the sake of political correctness and cultural sensitivity. This raw and disturbing account covers the truths regarding the appalling and cruel treatment of women, the squandering of foreign aid by, and corruption of, the Karzai-centric government that includes the betrayal of its own people. He presents eye-opening insight into the tribal structure that has traditionally guided the Afghan mindset and, despite efforts to westernize, will not go away. He details the inexplicable and infuriating policies regarding failures associated with poppy eradication, and it is the poppies that are the fuel for terrorist activities. He further provides explanations for the Talibans continuing control and the problems associated with our well-intentioned but misguided counterinsurgency strategies against the Taliban and al Qaeda - strategies that fail our mission and our soldiers. In this reasoned, forceful and intellectually honest treatise, he also courageously dissects the disturbing role of Islam and forces the reader to come face to face with the reality that Islam, not the Taliban, is the real enemy in Afghanistan. After reading Afghanistan: The Perfect Failure, we can only conclude we must no longer turn a blind eye to what is happening in Afghanistan. Mr. Cooks dissection is powerful and provocative. The American public deserves more than the thin veil of reporting that has been done on the subjects in this expose. Due to his longevity in this war torn country and high- level access, few, if any, have had the opportunity to gain the inside and knowledge afforded John Cook; none have had the courage to publicly reveal the shameful truth.

Boyfriend From Hell

Autore: Jamie Quaid
Editore: Simon and Schuster
ISBN: 145165636X
Grandezza: 28,68 MB
Formato: PDF, ePub, Mobi
Vista: 9290

A Simon & Schuster eBook. Simon & Schuster has a great book for every reader.

Photographing Maui Where To Find Perfect Shots And How To Take Them

Autore: Douglas Peebles
Editore: The Countryman Press
ISBN: 1581578938
Grandezza: 21,71 MB
Formato: PDF, Mobi
Vista: 9189

This series provides invaluable advice by regional experts and master photographers on where to find the most stunning sites at their peak and how to shoot them. Voted over a dozen times as the best island in the world by the readers of Conde Nast Traveler magazine, Maui offers incredible opportunities for photographers at all levels of expertise. In this detailed guide, photographer Douglas Peebles gives invaluable advice on where to find the most stunning sites at their peak and how best to shoot them. Featuring maps and exquisite photos, this book is a necessary companion for any Maui expedition.